Phillips public sale home is partnering with Vivarium by Vivienne Becker to host “Lady to Lady,” an exhibition and non-auction sale of jewellery designed by ladies. The occasion, a part of the Phillips Flawless collection of personal gross sales, was curated to showcase distinctive items from each up to date and iconic feminine jewellery designers.
“Personal gross sales are to auctions what bespoke is to ready-to-wear,” says Paul Redmayne, Phillips head of personal jewellery gross sales. “They provide collectors the chance to pick out and management the fabric, the price range and the timing.”
Vivarium, owned by jewellery guru Vivienne Becker, has three principal strands: it represents and nurtures a small steady of main up to date jewelers, every of whom has a definite visible voice; it affords recommendation to shoppers on the sourcing and sale of vintage jewellery and uncommon gem stones; and it serves as a venue for Vivienne Becker to share her data of jewellery by means of non-public occasions, talks and curated exhibitions. The web site’s content material is designed to point out off the cultural richness of jewels and gems.
Lady to Lady, Phillips’ first collaborative collection with Vivarium, consists of 42 distinctive items by 15 designers. Modern stars embrace Nadia Morgenthaler, Feng J, and Silvia Furmanovich, exhibited alongside classic items by icons corresponding to Suzanne Belperron, Paloma Picasso and Marina Bulgari. Costs are nicely underneath $100,000, with most underneath $50,000 and a number of other priced at lower than $10,000.
The lead design is “Chocolate Squares,” a bracelet designed by Suzanne Belperron in 1929. The hyperlinks are manufactured from black onyx carved to resemble chocolate squares which might be set with diamonds in 18k gold (value on request).
Belperron, who labored for the Boivin jewellery home in Paris, was probably the most unique and influential jewellery designers of the 20th century. She archived her works, however by no means signed them. Upon the dying of jeweler René Boivin in 1917, his agency was taken over by his spouse, Jeanne Boivin, who employed Belperron. There’s a additionally classic Boivin design within the sale, a pair of earrings made in 1945 of 18-karat yellow gold set with aquamarine, chrysoberyl, peridot and citrine. $72,000.
A barely extra trendy pair of earrings within the sale have been designed by Marina B in 1978. Marina Bulgari is the granddaughter of Bulgari founder Sotirio Bulgari and cousin to Gianni, Paolo and Nicola. She grew to become a jeweler to the jet set within the ’70s and ’80s, and her lavish type got here to outline Eighties jewellery. She retired in 1996, and designer Man Bedarida (previously of John Hardy and Van Cleef & Arpels) took over as artistic director of the corporate. The earrings, designed as diamond chandeliers, are priced at $40,800.
Most of the Vivarium designers represented within the sale are identified for his or her work with uncommon supplies. Solange Azagury-Partridge’s “Sizzling Pink Diamond Scribbles” ring, for instance, combines neon pink lacquer with 18-karat white gold and rhodium. The lacquer shank holds a 2 carat diamond, surrounded by a “scribble” of smaller diamonds. It’s priced at $78,000. Geneva jewellery designer Nadia Morgenthaler likewise focuses on items that fuse high-tech processes with conventional hand craftsmanship. The earrings she brings to the Lady to Lady sale mix agate, kunzite, pure pearl and diamond set in platinum (value upon request).
Feng J additionally combines conventional methods with trendy supplies and processes along with her Calla Lily Ring. The shank is manufactured from 18-karat gold however the gold is hand painted. It’s set with a 2.97 carat Zambian emerald and surrounded by yellow sapphires, tsavorites and rose reduce diamond (value on request).
Different works embrace a pair of miniature painted “banana leaf” earrings set with citrine, yellow sapphire and diamonds by Silvia Furmanovich ($6,960); and the “Billowing Cloud” brooch by Cora Sheibani, set with fluorescent diamonds in 18-karat white gold ($15,170).
“At Phillips, we faucet into our international community to supply something, anyplace,” says Redmayne. “If you’re seeking to purchase or promote one thing outdoors the public sale calendar or certainly in the event you want to take action discreetly in a one-to-one setting quite than in a public public sale, non-public gross sales offers the right platform to take action.”
The Lady to Lady sale and exhibition is on by means of Might thirty first, and is supplemented by lectures and discussions highlighting how ladies have influenced and formed the trendy world of jewels.