Parmigiani is getting a little bit of a makeover beneath the course of the model’s newly appointed CEO, Guido Terreni, who took over the helm in January of this 12 months. A number of the fruits of his labor have been unveiled on Monday at Geneva Watch Days in Switzerland.
The brand new look is cleaner and extra directional with a give attention to the Tonda assortment, which has a brand new chronograph, annual calendar and split-seconds mannequin. The brand new lineup is dubbed the “Tonda PF” in reference to the brand new branding, which removes the Parmigiani Fleurier identify in favor of a easy PF emblem at 12 o’clock. And whereas that’s no small change, Parmigiani’s fan base will possible approve—many collectors through the years have grumbled or joked concerning the model identify’s similarity, in each pronunciation and spelling, to Italy’s most pervasive cheese, parmesan.
Like founder Michel Parmigani (who was born and raised in Switzerland, however whose father hails from Milan), Terreni additionally has Italian roots. He spent the final 20 years at Bulgari, the place he oversaw the positioning of the Roman jeweler’s watchmaking division to grow to be a revered power within the trade with six world information (it now holds seven) in ultra-thin actions housed in up to date, forward-thinking designs. So now all he has to do is make the magic occur a second time.
Parmigiani is properly revered, because of the founder’s master-watchmaking chops and its elite integrated-watchmaking manufacture (utilized by different manufacturers comparable to Chopard to make parts or instances), but it surely has by no means fairly obtained the popularity it deserved, definitely in comparison with different area of interest manufacturers of comparable ilk.
“My function on this second is absolutely to form and to outline, in a really exact method, what’s the soul of Parmigiani,” Terreni instructed Robb Report shortly after being appointed CEO. “It’s a model that’s twenty-five years previous. It’s a model that had an incredible begin in very prestigious and distinctive items and mechanics. It wants course and it wants a consistency throughout the fashion, throughout the tone of voice and throughout the story. Few individuals learn about this model, so there is a chance to widen it to individuals, however not in a quantitative method.” His purpose is to not make extra watches, however to talk to an informed clientele with discreet style and magnificence and to speak extra clearly about Michel Parmigiani’s experience. “Greater than the model worth, I feel we have now to construct the human worth,” he says.
The Tonda, Kalpa and Toric collections can be his focus, beginning with the model’s largest moneymaker, the Tonda. The brand new assortment is a extra refined follow-up to final 12 months’s Tonda GT and Tondagraph GT fashions (pictured above), which supplied a sportier bracelet for shoppers on the lookout for a extra on a regular basis timepiece. This time round, the dials are method much less fussy. You may even say, minimalist. Right here’s a have a look at its promising future:
Tonda PF Micro-Rotor
Right here’s one for the purists. This slim 40 mm by 7.8 mm PF Micro-Rotor homes the brand new PF703 motion, a self-winding engine measuring simply 3 mm thick because of a small platinum micro-rotor built-in into the motion relatively than resting on prime of it. Save for a small date window at 6 o’clock, with a darkish background (matching the colour of the minute monitor) that blends into the grey grain d’orge guilloché background, the dial solely options delta-shaped skeletonized palms and small hand-applied hour indicators, foregoing numerals. It’s out there in 18-carat rose gold ($59,900) or stainless-steel ($22,900) with a knurled bezel design.
Tonda PF Chronograph
Equally, even the chronograph acquired a face wash. The hour markers are additionally shortened, however, right here, they make room for the symmetry of the three counter subdials. Just like the Micro-Rotor, it comes with delta-shaped palms and grain d’orge guilloché, this time in navy. Each the stainless-steel ($31,000) and 18-karat rose gold ($69,700) variations are powered by the excessive frequency 5 Hz caliber PF070, an built-in column-wheel motion with two registers and a small seconds. It debuts a brand new 22-karat rose-gold and openworked oscillating weight accented with the brand new PF emblem.
Tonda PF Annual Calendar
The caliber PF339 that powers the brand new 42 mm Tonda PF Annual Calendar comes with retrograde date, day, month indications, in addition to a 122-year moonphase aperture that shows the cycle in each hemispheres. The date has been pushed to the outward minute monitor, refining a design that pares down an advanced watch that might simply look hectic. There’s 50 hours of energy reserve and it is available in both stainless-steel with a platinum knurled bezel ($38,700) or 18-karat rose gold ($77,500) with an identical knurled bezel, each with grey guilloché dials and a 22-karat rose-gold oscillating weight.
Tonda PF Cut up Seconds Chronograph
The query we will’t reply till we see certainly one of these within the steel, is are you able to learn the time. However there’s a magnificence to the monochrome Tonda PF Cut up Seconds Chronograph because of the platinum 950 case contrasting with the sand-blasted platinum dial with 18-karat gold rhodium-plated skeletonized palms. Flip it over and you will notice a few of Michel Parmigiani’s mastery within the stunning structure (not coincidentally, he virtually grew to become an architect earlier than pursuing watchmaking) of the PF361 guide winding high-frequency split-seconds chronograph motion in 18-carat rose gold (a brand new model of the GPHG award-winning ChroOr). The 42 mm by 15 mm watch, outfitted with 60 hours of energy reserve, comes with a hefty price ticket to match its weight in treasured steel. It’s restricted to 25 items and prices $171,600.