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A lot ink and tears have been shed final summer season when Brooks Brothers closed its final remaining U.S. shirt manufacturing unit earlier than submitting for chapter. However the many obituaries that adopted failed to say that it was survived by a relative of types, J. Press, which launched a made-to-order program for its domestically manufactured shirts across the identical time.

What jumps out first is this system’s stunning affordability. At $135 a pop, J. Press’s MTO shirts are priced only a hair above the maker’s ready-to-wear choices. A potential trade-off would be the restricted vary of customizations: after deciding on a material, chances are you’ll choose from three collar kinds (button-down, level or unfold), French or barrel cuffs, and both an ordinary pocket or the signature J. Press flap. As for the match, you’re requested to examine both “traditional” or “trim” earlier than inputting your neck and sleeve dimension.

J. Press

This might not be my first MTO rodeo: as somebody with a 15.5” neck and a 37” sleeve—an unholy mixture I’ve by no means seen on a retailer shelf—it’s my solely approach of acquiring something with out brief sleeves. And as a longtime Ivy type devotee, I’m ceaselessly trying to find makers that may present an oxford material button-down (OCBD for brief) with a smooth, unlined collar. With this in thoughts I chosen oxford material in a brilliant, Lisa Birnbach-approved shade of pink, together with a button-down collar, barrel cuffs, an ordinary pocket and a trim match.

My shirt arrived a couple of weeks later (the corporate line is four-to-five weeks) and proved a right away success. As somebody with a broad chest and shoulders however a smaller waist, I used to be involved the trim match may pinch up high. Nevertheless it was on the liberal aspect of slim, leaving loads of room with out showing blousy. I used to be additionally impressed by the heft of the material, which was as beefy as oxford material must be at the beginning and commenced to melt properly after the primary wash.

Detail of the collar on J. Press's OCBD.

J. Press

Nevertheless it’s the collar that basically makes or breaks an OCBD. In J. Press’s case, all shirts made with oxford material function unlined cuffs and collars, although with an asterisk: a small piece of the identical material is inserted between the 2 layers of the collar. In sensible phrases, this implies the collar has sufficient construction that its roll received’t collapse when the shirt is buttoned to the highest—a difficulty I’ve encountered with different unlined collars—however stays smooth and informal sufficient to pair with frayed chinos and beef-roll penny loafers. And at 3¼”, the collar factors are lengthy sufficient to create that desired S-shaped roll with out wanting anachronistic.

If I had any complaints, it could be that I needed such old-school particulars as a middle again collar button or a locker loop may very well be included, however it’s arduous to argue for such area of interest trivialities contemplating the worth. And people who actually wish to get into the nitty gritty can as a substitute discover J. Press’s made-to-measure shirt program, which is obtainable in-store at their New York Metropolis and Washington D.C. outlets and permits clients to select from an expanded menu of customizations together with distinction collars and monogramming.

As for myself, I’ve already begun daydreaming about my subsequent MTO order: a button-down shirt in yellow oxford material sounds proper for spring.

Buy Now: $135

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